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From the trendy neighborhoods of Taipei to the historic streets of Tainan and the beaches of Kenting: this itinerary shows you three completely different sides of Taiwan. Includes practical tips, favorite hotspots, and suggestions to extend your tour.
A tour of Taiwan had been on my bucket list for years. It is one of those countries that everyone falls in love with instantly once they have been there. I can now confirm: this island in Asia indeed has it all. An amazing food culture, ancient temples, modern cities, endless nature, onsens, and tropical beaches. During my first trip to Taiwan, I traveled from the north to the south for over a week. My first impression? Everything is incredibly well organized, I felt very safe, the people are super friendly, and it is unbelievably clean.

Eating seafood in Kenting © Your Little Black Book
With this itinerary, including lovely hotels throughout Taiwan, you will discover three completely different sides of the country: energetic Taipei, historic Tainan, and tropical Kenting in the south of Taiwan. And almost all of this by High-Speed Rail. This tour is a great first introduction to Taiwan . If you have more time than a week, I have also included some suggestions for additional destinations to add at the bottom of this article. One thing is certain: I will definitely go back again with my family. Because there is plenty to discover in Taiwan, even with children.


As soon as I drove from Taipei airport through the green mountains towards the city, I knew: this is a destination I'm probably going to really like. What could be better than landing early in the morning and, just a few hours later, sitting among the locals with a bowl of warm soy milk (Dou Jiang)? Along with You Tiao (a type of crispy dough) to dip into it and a bowl of delicious soup dumplings (Xiao Long Bao). You get the picture: I fell in love with Taipei instantly!
Skyscrapers stand next to temples here; you start the day with a hearty hot breakfast as described above, spend it in a trendy neighborhood, and end it with a foot massage or a visit to a night market. My advice? Plan at least two full days in Taipei before traveling on and make sure to set aside some time at the end of your trip as well.

Soy Milk Shop in Taipei © Your Little Black Book
| TIP: Book a different nice hotel in Taipei upon arrival and departure each time so you can head out on foot to explore the city. Check out the YLBB shortlist of favorite hotels for every budget here >>
One of the most beautiful temples in Taipei is the Longshan Temple. It is nice to go here early in the morning, when it is still relatively quiet and you can look around at your leisure. You will probably see locals throwing Jiaobei. These are a type of small red wooden crescent moon used as a spiritual means of communication to ask the gods yes/no questions. I bought them later as a souvenir at a small shop in the Red House, and now my son and I sometimes get them out at home too. Fun fact: the Longshan Temple is the oldest temple in Taipei. Do you want to have breakfast near the Longshan Temple? There is a Soy Milk Shop nearby (達人豆漿大王) where I ate delicious soup dumplings.

Longshan Temple © Your Little Black Book
Located near Longshan Temple is Herb Lane, a street where traditional Chinese medicine is still part of daily life. You really shouldn't miss this street if you happen to be in the area. Are you suffering from something? Explain it to the shopkeepers. They have a herbal tea for almost every ailment, based on centuries-old recipes passed down from generation to generation. I had a drink there for the bloated feeling you can get right after getting off a plane.

Herb Lane © Your Little Black Book
If you love neighborhoods where history and hip new businesses come together, then you shouldn't miss Dadaocheng, and Dihua Street in particular. During the day, it's the place to be for coffee and tea shops, while in the evening the neighborhood buzzes with cocktail bars. Be sure to look up as well, because one facade of the historic merchant buildings is even more beautiful than the next.
Insider tip: don't skip the side streets. That is exactly where you'll find the nicest coffee shops, small galleries, and concept stores, and it is no coincidence that this micro-neighborhood has been given the name Art Yard. Showa Ice Cream is a special stop for a tasty ice cream, and at Du Hsiao Yueh you can eat delicious Dan Zai Noodles.
Be sure to walk towards the river as well, where you will find Pier 5, among other things, which has been transformed into a food truck park. It is a nice stop to grab a drink with a view of the water. There is also a bike path running along the river, and you can rent white city bikes everywhere.

Dadaocheng © Your Little Black Book
Taipei has a surprising number of creative parks housed in old factories, warehouses, and industrial buildings. Compare it a bit to the NDSM shipyard in Amsterdam, but Taiwanese style.
One of the best known is Huashan 1914 Creative Park, a former sake factory that has been transformed into a vibrant place with exhibitions, design shops, pop-up stores, and cafes. Songshan Cultural and Creative Park is also highly recommended if you are interested in design, architecture, and local makers.
What I really like about these places is that they aren't just geared towards tourists. In fact, you mostly see a lot of twenty-somethings and families visiting an exhibition, having coffee, or browsing the concept stores. I've visited almost all of them, but Huashan 1914 Creative Park and Songshan Cultural and Creative Park are the places you really want to see. Read all about the best creative parks in Taipei here >>

Songshan Cultural and Creative Park © Your Little Black Book
Ask a local about their favorite evening activity, and chances are a visit to a night market will be mentioned. Night markets are, after all, much more than just a place to eat. They are meeting places where families gather, friends meet up, and where you get a good glimpse of daily life in Taiwan. Taipei has dozens of night markets, but if I had to recommend one, I would undoubtedly choose Raohe Night Market. At this night market, you can eat the tastiest snacks, sample a huge variety for less than €15, and you have to pay cash almost everywhere.
What I also like about Raohe Night Market is that it is very well organized. The market consists of one long street, so you don't have to search endlessly, and along the way you naturally pass the most famous stalls. The absolute classic here are the famous Black Pepper Buns, which are baked fresh in a traditional clay oven. I can tell you by now that a visit is worthwhile just for those buns! In the evening, the temple right next to the market is beautifully illuminated, and you definitely want to stop there for a photo.

Roahe Night Market in Taipei © Your Little Black Book
For a long time, Taipei 101 was the tallest building in the world, and it remains the city's landmark. At 508 meters tall, the tower can be seen emerging from almost every district of Taipei amidst the mountains surrounding the city. The architecture is inspired by a bamboo stalk, a symbol of growth and prosperity in traditional Taiwanese culture.
Although the view is naturally the biggest reason to go up, I found seeing the gigantic anemometer at least as impressive. This enormous golden sphere hangs in the middle of the tower and ensures that the building is resistant to typhoons and earthquakes. It is one of the few buildings in the world where you can view such a structure up close.
My advice? If possible, plan your visit for late afternoon. That way, you see Taipei first in daylight, then at sunset, and finally illuminated in the dark. I think that always makes a visit to an observation deck even more impressive.


One of Taipei's most famous landmarks is undoubtedly the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall. If only for its impressive architecture, this is a place you won't want to miss during a tour of Taiwan. If you visit, be sure to try to witness the Changing of the Guard, which takes place every hour and offers a unique glimpse into the traditions that are still upheld here. If you want to learn more about Taiwan's history and politics, I would recommend visiting the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall with a guide.

Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall in Taipei © Your Little Black Book
If, like me, you love trendy and hip neighborhoods full of vintage shops, coffee shops, and street food stalls, then Taipei is the place for you. Neighborhoods you don't want to miss are Ximending and Songshan.
My hotel was located close to Songshan, and this is one of the nicest neighborhoods in Taipei. The streets around Chifeng Street, in particular, are incredibly charming and full of hidden gems. Here, vintage shops, independent bookstores, specialty coffee bars, and small galleries alternate. It is a neighborhood where you actually want to wander without a plan, constantly discovering something new at different times of the day. The district comes most alive from the afternoon onwards.

Songshan © Your Little Black Book
Ximending is often called the Shibuya of Taipei and is one of the city's liveliest neighborhoods. During the day, you can wander endlessly past sneaker shops, vintage boutiques, beauty stores, and cafes, while at night the district transforms into a sea of neon lights and street food stalls. The heart of the district is the car-free Ximending Walking District, where there is always something going on. Don't forget to pop into the historic Red House as well. This iconic red building from 1908 is now a creative hotspot featuring small design shops and local makers. Do you love bubble tea like I do? Then you definitely want to try the boba at Xing Fu Tang.

Ximending © Your Little Black Book
Pull up a chair at Din Tai Fung in Taipei
You can't really leave Taiwan without visiting Din Tai Fung. Yes, this restaurant chain now has branches all over the world, but Taiwan is where it all began. The most famous branch can be found in Taipei (Din Tai Fung Xinyi Branch) and is best known for the perfect Xiao Long Bao: dumplings filled with pork and a rich broth that is released as soon as you bite into them.
The open kitchen where the dumplings are folded with military precision is a sight in itself. In addition to the classic Xiao Long Bao, be sure to order the steamed crab dumplings and the wontons with chili sauce. Be prepared for a wait if you go here without a reservation, but believe me when I say it is really worth dining here. You can also combine it with a visit to Taipei 101, where a branch is also located.


Longshan Temple, Herb Lane, Dadaocheng, Dihua Street, Pier5, Ximending and Raohe Night Market.
Huashan 1914 Creative Park , Kai-shek Memorial Hall, Songshan, Taipei 101 and Din Tai Fung.

Dihua Street © Your Little Black Book
Ask a local about the most beautiful city in Taiwan, and chances are Tainan will be mentioned. Tainan was the country's first capital and is full of historic buildings, countless temples, old streets, and a food culture that makes it a popular destination among Taiwanese people as well. It is not without reason that Tainan is called the food capital of Taiwan. You can get from Taipei to Tainan in just two hours by High Speed Rail.
Good to know: the train ride on the HSR itself takes 1,5 hours, but the station is located 20 minutes outside the city center. You can easily order an Uber for the last leg. Tainan has very beautiful and surprisingly affordable hotels . Will you go for a small boutique hotel with a rooftop bar or a luxury hotel with a pool? Also check out the YLBB shortlist of hotels in Tainan here >>

Anping District Tainan © Your Little Black Book
During a visit to Tainan, you should not miss the historic Anping district. This is the place where various chapters in Taiwan's history converge. Here, you can see influences from the Dutch, Chinese, and Japanese periods, but above all, how Taiwan deals with that past today. Anping feels both historical and vibrant, with atmospheric streets filled with old lion talismans, street food stalls, and fun hidden hotspots like Mi:So (汨所).
Anping Fort (also known as Fort Zeelandia) is one of Taiwan's most important historical sites. Fort Zeelandia stood on this location in the seventeenth century, built during the Dutch presence on the island; today, the impressive old outer walls in particular serve as a reminder of this period. Nowadays, a visit is primarily about understanding Taiwan's complex history and the various cultures that have influenced the country throughout the centuries. Furthermore, from the observation tower, you have a beautiful view of the district and the harbor.


After all the history, it is time to discover the neighborhood in a different way: through the delicious street food available everywhere. Anping Old Street is Taiwan's oldest shopping street and is lined with stalls selling local specialties, street food, and small souvenir shops. Be sure to try an oyster omelet and coffin bread here (an iconic dish of fried bread filled with a creamy ragout that originated in Tainan). In the side streets, you will find all kinds of small arts and crafts studios, and if you want to create a unique souvenir, such as painting an Anping Sword Lion, you have come to the right place.
One of the most unique (and certainly the most photographed) places in Tainan is without a doubt Anping Tree House. What was once a commercial building has now been almost completely taken over by nature. Giant banyan trees have worked their way through the windows, walls, and roofs, making it look as if the building is slowly being reclaimed by the greenery. The result is an almost fairytale-like setting, and it is lovely to see this with your own eyes when you are in Anping.

Anping Tree House © Your Little Black Book
Another place where you truly experience Tainan's food culture is the Garden Night Market. This is one of the largest and most famous night markets in Taiwan, and a place where you mostly snack among the locals. As soon as you arrive, you are surrounded by the aroma of grilled meat, freshly baked snacks, and sweet desserts. Go nice and early in the evening, as it can get quite crowded during peak hours. There are street food stalls, but also mini-restaurants where you can even sit down to grill or enjoy hotpot.
What I really liked about the Garden Night Market is that the selection is so incredibly varied. Of course, you come across classics like oyster omelette, grilled seafood, stinky tofu, sweet potato balls, and Taiwanese fried chicken, but it is precisely the small stalls with regional specialties that make it interesting.
I would walk around first to see what's available and then put together your own night market menu with everything you want to taste. Bringing cash is a must, and promise me you'll definitely save room for Tanghulu for dessert: candied tomatoes on a stick. Seriously unbelievably delicious!

Garden Night Market in Tainan © Your Little Black Book
Located in the heart of Tainan's historic center lies the Confucius Temple, Taiwan's oldest Confucian temple. Built in 1665, the temple played an important role for centuries as a center for education and philosophy. I found it a nice stop to make right after breakfast. While many temples in Taiwan are colorfully and exuberantly decorated, this place exudes peace and simplicity. Stroll at your leisure through the various courtyards, admire the traditional architecture, and take a seat under the ancient trees that provide shade on warm days. I also found the pavilion very beautiful.

Taiwan Confucius Temple in Tainan © Your Little Black Book
Hayashi Department Store is much more than a department store. The iconic building from Taiwan's Japanese period opened in 1932 and was one of the most modern department stores on the island at the time. Today, it has been fully restored and, in my opinion, is a real must-visit for a look around and some shopping. First, take the antique elevator to the roof, from where you have a great view of the city and where you will also find a small Shinto shrine from the Japanese period.
Inside, you will find various floors featuring Taiwanese brands, design products, food gifts, stationery, and souvenirs. If you want to bring something back from Taiwan, this is the place to strike a bargain. I haven't seen such a beautiful selection all in one place since. I personally went wild in the food department, and we have been enjoying all the edible souvenirs I brought home for weeks now.


One of the most surprising modern places I visited in Tainan was Tainan Long Story. You want to go here for the architecture alone. The building was designed by the famous Japanese architect Sou Fujimoto and is meant to feel like a modern ode to the narrow alleys Tainan is known for.
As soon as you step inside, you understand why this place receives so much attention. The building consists of a labyrinth of staircases, vistas, and hidden corners. Some staircases lead to dead ends, others take you to an unexpected viewpoint, and the perspective changes on every floor. Light and shadow play a leading role everywhere.
Climbing the stairs is rewarded at the end with a museum café where they make delicious homemade ice cream. The lychee ice cream with rose was my favorite!

Tainan Long Story © Your Little Black Book
Ask a local where to go for typical Tainan food, and chances are the area around Yong Le Market will be mentioned. As far as I'm concerned, this is one of the nicest neighborhoods in the city for foodies. Not only because of the market itself, but especially because of all the small restaurants, food stalls, and family businesses that have been preparing the same dishes for generations.
Yong Le Market is known for local classics such as Dan Zai Noodles, rice dishes, fresh seafood, and various snacks enjoyed at authentic eateries. Be sure to set aside a few hours here and wander aimlessly through the surrounding streets. The market remains open until after lunch, but in the evening, this part of the city comes alive and the trendy cocktail bars and restaurants open. You will find many great spots, especially near Zhengxing Street.
Insider tip: don't just visit Yong Le Market at lunchtime. The surrounding streets are also lively in the afternoon and early evening. That is often when you discover the best spots where hardly any tourists go.


Explore the Anping district and eat at the Garden Night Market.
The center of Tainan with Confucius Temple, Tainan Long Story, Hayashi Department Store, and food and drink in the area of Yong Le Market and Zhengxing Street.
| TIP: Check out the comprehensive guide here with many more fun things to do in Tainan >>

West Central District © Your Little Black Book
You might primarily think of cities and night markets when you think of Taiwan, but the area around Kenting in Pingtung province shows you a completely different side of the island. Think of tropical beaches, a turquoise sea, national parks, and a relaxed atmosphere befitting a beach vacation. From Tainan, I would recommend renting a car and driving to Kenting yourself. That way, you have the freedom to explore the area without public transport or taxis. It is about a 2,5-hour drive, and they drive on the right in Taiwan. Good to know: to rent a car in Taiwan, you need to bring an international driving permit (you can easily obtain this through the ANWB, and it is only valid in combination with your Dutch driving license).

Hotel Dua Kenting © Your Little Black Book
The name says it all, really. Crystal-clear water, rock formations, and a coastline that feels completely different from the rest of Taiwan. One of the best ways to explore the coast is from a SUP board. Paddling past the rock formations, you truly see just how special this stretch of coastline is. Snorkeling is also popular here, and I understand why now. I snorkel during every beach trip in Asia, but it has been a long time since I saw so many different types of fish in such a small area as I did here. I saw most of the fish towards the reef located on the side of the Bayou Bridge in the bay of Little Bali Island (found on Google Maps here: 小巴里島岩). There are several companies that offer snorkel and SUP tours, such as Kenting Sup Club.

Little Bali Island © Your Little Black Book
When most people think of Kenting, they immediately think of beaches and the coast. But you can also enjoy beautiful hiking here. Kenting National Forest Recreation Area was a real surprise to me. This nature reserve is situated on an elevated old coral reef and reveals a completely different side of the region. Instead of sea views, here you walk through a dense tropical forest full of unique plants, giant trees, and hidden caves, such as the Silver Dragon Cave and Fairy Cave. The hike is not difficult, and the landscape changes constantly. I saw countless beautiful butterflies there, and at the end, even monkeys.


One of Taiwan's most famous lighthouses is Eluanbi Lighthouse, located at the southernmost point of the island. The snow-white lighthouse stands out beautifully against the blue sky and the ocean and has become one of Kenting's iconic landmarks. I actually found the view of the sea from the park to be the most beautiful part. I enjoyed seeing the lighthouse itself, but I wouldn't make a special detour for it next time. Unless you combine the visit with a hike in Longpan Park. The two are relatively close to each other!

View at Eluanbi Lighthouse © Your Little Black Book
A unique experience in South Taiwan is a night safari with the local community to stargaze and spot the special Formosan sika deer (if you are lucky!).
Shuiwaku is located on the eastern side of Kenting National Park, close to Longpan Grassland. What makes this place special is that it is not a tourist attraction, but a real community where residents are still closely connected to the landscape. During the walk, you will learn not only more about nature, but also about daily life, the history of the area, and the way residents and nature have lived together here for generations.
As soon as darkness falls, the landscape changes completely. The sea breeze, the moonlight, and the silence of the grasslands create an almost magical atmosphere. Along the way, the guides search for traces of the Formosan sika deer, a native deer species that once disappeared from the wild in Taiwan. Thanks to conservation projects by Kenting National Park, the animals now live in this area again. With a little luck, you will see them appear among the grasslands.
Because there is hardly any light pollution in this part of Kenting, it is also a great place to stargaze. On clear evenings, you see many more stars here than in the cities, and the guides point out various constellations visible above the peninsula. Unfortunately, we were unlucky; it was cloudy and windy, but I can completely imagine the magic of such an evening.
Several good hotels, such as Gloria Manor and Four Sisters Villa, also offer similar tours to guests. Tip: wear good, closed walking shoes, socks, and long pants for the walk, as you will be walking through tall grass without paths.

Stargazing in Kenting national park © Your Little Black Book
A visit to Kenting is not complete without lunch or dinner near the Houbihu harbor. Here you will find various local seafood restaurants, and honestly? I might have had the best meal of the entire trip at the simplest little restaurant there. Fishermen bring in their catch here daily, and you can taste that on your plate. The seafood is fresh, comes straight from the tanks, and is also surprisingly affordable.
One of the places recommended to me by locals is Yi Zhi Lin Seafood Restaurant. Here you can eat classic Taiwanese dishes with plenty of fresh fish and seafood. I ate the most delicious clams there, as well as octopus balls and octopus mouths. You can also find various seafood restaurants in the passage at the Houbihu harbor itself, where you can often see immediately which fish or shellfish are available that day. The sashimi stalls are also popular.
What I like so much about these little places: here, everything revolves around the quality of the ingredients. You sit on plastic chairs, the decor is simple, you hardly run into any other tourists, and it is precisely that simplicity that I appreciate so much.

Houbihu © Your Little Black Book
If you drive through Kenting's main street during the day, there really seems to be nothing going on. But after sunset, Kenting comes completely to life. The main street transforms into a long, neon-lit night market full of street food, games, souvenir shops, bars, and stalls. Don't expect a night market here like in the city, but rather the beach holiday version where young people also go out. It's fun to walk along while eating, because here too you'll come across all kinds of tasty snacks along the way, from grilled seafood and Taiwanese sausages to fresh fruit and sweet desserts. There are also many seafood restaurants and various Japanese eateries on the street. If you are looking for peace and quiet, this is not the place to go, but after a day in nature, I actually found it quite nice to stroll along for a bit and score some sheet masks at Cosmed for the hotel room.

Kenting Night Market © Your Little Black Book
Close to Kenting you will find the town of Hengchun, a nice place to visit for a few hours. The old center is still surrounded by parts of the original city wall and therefore feels completely different from the coastal towns in the area.
Start your visit at the East Gate, one of Taiwan's best-preserved city gates. From there, you can stroll through the streets of Hengchun at your leisure. The city comes to life, especially towards the end of the afternoon, as more and more shops and cafes open their doors. Be sure to visit the Hengchun Night Market if you are there on an evening when it is taking place. I've been told that this market feels much more local than the one in Kenting.
For dinner, 虎炊稻 Höo Triptown 臺菜沙龍 is highly recommended. This hip restaurant gives a modern twist to Taiwanese cuisine without losing sight of traditional flavors. I enjoyed all the dishes I tasted there, and I still often think back to the starfruit lemonade with salt. The combination of the colorful interior, creative dishes, and local ingredients made this hotspot a real surprise for me.


Tainan planning in brief:
Kenting National Forest Area, Eluanbi Lighthouse, Stargazing and Sika deer at Sheding Village and Kenting Night Market.
Snorkeling and SUP at Little Bali Island, seafood lunch and sashimi at Houbihu and Hengchun.

Kenting National Park © Your Little Black Book
There are several ways to travel back to Taipei from Kenting. The nearest High Speed Rail departs from Kaohsiung. If you keep your rental car and can travel in Taiwan longer, there are several stops I would definitely add next time.
The next time I'm in Taiwan, I would definitely stay an extra night here, because this port city is really up-and-coming. For example, the impressive Fo Guang Shan Buddha Museum is also located in the area. I visited it during this tour for an extensive lunch at Hi-Lai Vegetarian Restaurant and a visit to the enormous Buddha. After that, I took the HSR from Kaohsiung to Taipei, but next time I would definitely stay an extra night here.
If I were to drive back from Kenting, I would return it in Taichung and make a few beautiful stops along the way. For example, two nights in the mountains of Alishan (about a 3-hour drive from Kaohsiung) and two nights at Sun Moon Lake (about a 3-hour drive from Alishan). After that, I would drive to Taichung (1,5 hours from Sun Moon Lake), return the car there, and stay one more night in the city. While doing my research for Taiwan, I found such beautiful places to stay and nice restaurants at all these destinations. Reason enough to go back again. From Taichung, you can be back in Taipei in no time using the High Speed Rail. TIP: You can find inspiration for the most beautiful hotels at these destinations in the comprehensive guide to the best hotels in Taiwan.

Silks Place © Your Little Black Book
There is a good chance your flight to the Netherlands doesn't depart from Taipei until the evening. So with one extra night, you have another evening and a full day in the city. Perhaps you're in the mood for one last night market, or you want to end the trip in style with an elaborate dinner. For example, there are countless good and affordable Michelin-starred restaurants in Taipei. The Da'an District is also full of fun and trendy restaurants. And perhaps you want to do some last-minute shopping?
After this tour, I booked two extra nights in Taipei , which allowed me to visit many different neighborhoods and restaurants. Unfortunately, the weather wasn't as good towards the end of the trip. Otherwise, I would have used these days to take day trips to Jiufen and Shifen for a day full of teahouses and lanterns in the evening. On the other day, I was going to go to the tea plantations near Maokong and visit the stinky tofu capital, Shenkeng. But perhaps that is also the beauty of traveling: that plans are meant to be changed, and that gives you a reason to always go back again <3.

Kimpton Da'An © Your Little Black Book
I hope you find the tips in this itinerary from Taipei to Tainan and Kenting, as well as the suggestions for extending this tour with other beautiful places in Taiwan, very useful. It is a great route if you enjoy doing a lot in a short time and want to see many different sides of Taiwan. From centuries-old temples in Taipei and historic streets in Tainan to tropical beaches in Kenting. Add to that the amazing Taiwanese cuisine, friendly locals, and well-organized infrastructure, and you will understand why I consider Taiwan one of the most surprising destinations in Asia.
I really can't wait to go back with my family for a longer two to three-week tour of Taiwan. In any case, I have already mapped out the entire itinerary, and I hope you find it useful too. Happy travels!
With love, Anne

Ximending © Your Little Black Book